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Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Removing IT Policy on Blackberry

        

Unlocking the Blackberry.

First of all, this is not a guide on how to remove carrier information from a Blackberry. If you're unable to use a different SIM card than the one that was originally supplied with your device, look elsewhere. However if, like many others you have a Blackberry that is locked by a BES, meaning you're unable to change certain settings, or install Third Party Applications then read on. Essentially, the problem is that your Blackberry has at some point been connected to a BES (Blackberry Enterprise Server), and this BES has placed a restrictive Security Policy (or IT Policy) on your device. A quick check to see if this is the case can be done by going to Options/Security on your Device. If you see any references to IT Policy whatsoever, then you have a potentially restrictive IT Policy that can be removed.
The Disclaimer/Intended Use.
This guide is intended for use by people that own their own Blackberry, and for whatever reason, have inherited a company's IT Policy on their Device. Really, there are two scenarios where this guide is useful.
You, like me, bought a Blackberry on EBay and are unable to make changes to the settings or install Third Party Applications. You have a Blackberry that was previously connected to a company's BES and, for whatever reason; you no longer intend to make connections to that BES. If you're still connected to a Company BES, and simply want to install the latest and greatest Third Party Application I wouldn't recommend this approach. Go talk to your administrators and ask them to grant you the appropriate rights. There are two problems in using this guide to bypass your Company's Security Policy. Firstly, whenever you reconnect to the Company Server, your security settings will revert back to how they were. Secondly, and (perhaps) more importantly, you run the risk of getting fired.

Procedure

Method One

Method 1: IT Policy Removal (Preferred)
If you have any 8xxx or 9xxx device the best method for removing IT policy is to update it to OS 4.3 or higher (if possible) and you can use JL_Cmder's "resettofactory" command to remove ALL IT policy, Firewall restrictions and Application Permission settings. After you've upgraded to OS 4.3 or higher, simply backup the device using Desktop Manager, close Desktop Manager, then run JL_Cmder and execute the "resettofactory" command. The device will do a security wipe of the device; (meaning wipe your data but leave the OS, DO NOT use the "Wipe" command in JL_Cmder) then reboot leaving the OS, 3rd party apps but no data AND, best of all, NO IT policy whatsoever. When you're done, simply restore your backup and you're good to go with no policy or locked firewall. You can downgrade back to the old OS if you desire, too.
If your 7xxx or 8xxx device is running OS 4.2 or lower (look in Options >About) and you can't upgrade it to OS 4.3 or higher you will NOT be able to use method 1 above and you will need to use method #2 below:

Method Two

Step 1

Ensure the Blackberry Desktop Manager is installed using Blackberry Internet Service, and not Blackberry Enterprise Server. If you are unsure, it would probably be a good idea to uninstall the Desktop Manager and start again.
If you don't have the CD that came with your Blackberry, the Software can be downloaded here. BlackBerry Software Site

Step 2

Download the file policy.bin Download Here. and save it in your Blackberry installation directory (C:\Program Files\Research In Motion\BlackBerry).

Step 3

Wipe your Blackberry, creating a backup if necessary. Select Options/Security/Wipe (Newer 4.2 OS Devices Goto Options/Security Options/General Settings/Wipe) on the Device.
If this option is unavailable, you may have to install the latest software on your Blackberry. You need to Download and install the latest Desktop Manger Software, then the latest Handheld Software. Connect your device, open the Desktop Manager, select Application Loader, and follow the prompts.

Step 4

Close the Desktop Manager if it is open.

Step 5

From the Windows Start Menu select Run..., and at the prompt type regedit. In the tree on the left hand side, navigate to:
HKEY_Current_Users\Software\Research In Motion\BlackBerry\PolicyManager
Right-Click the Policy Manager Folder and select New/String Value. Name the value Path. Now, Double-Click the Path Subkey and set Value Data to:
C:\Program Files\Research In Motion\BlackBerry\policy.bin

Step 6

Open the Desktop Manager.

Step 7

Connect the Device.

Verification

Once complete, the Options/Security screen on your Blackberry should not contain references to an IT Policy, you should now be able to change all settings (including password prompts), and install Third Party Applications.
Sunday, November 21, 2010

Operating Systems, Hard Drives, Partitions, and You!

By Ryan Morse - November 21, 2010
Your operating system: it’s that collection of data and programs that makes all your desktop PC orlaptop computer hardware work together. Where your operating system is installed on your PC’s hard drive, as well as the type of drive it’s on, can have a big impact on your system’s performance.

Whether you’re starting with a fresh, blank hard drive or reinstalling, this 
Tech Tip will tell you where you should put your operating system and why.
Your hard drive is where most of your system’s data lives and, in most cases, it’s a critical component. Without a hard drive, you don’t have much of a system. Similarly, without an operating system installed on that hard drive, you’re not going to be doing a lot of computing either. Since your operating system is in charge of making your hardware work together, it’s important for it to have as few bottlenecks as possible. This means the best place to install your operating system is on your fastest hard drive on its primary partition.

Your operating system also borrows a certain amount of space on the hard drive for something called paging, which treats a portion of your hard drive as spillover for your system’s random access memory (RAM) in the form of a pagefile. When your RAM gets full, operating systems switch to using the hard drive as “virtual memory.”

Depending on how much RAM your system has, you’ve probably experienced this at one time or another. When you’ve got a lot of applications running and your system begins to hang, paging is usually the culprit. But paging is also necessary, so you can do your best to avoid it by running only a few applications at a time or adding RAM to your system, but for the time being, paging is always going to be there waiting. The secret to less painful paging is using a fast drive!

For disk-based hard drives, like most of the drives found in PCs today, speed is generally determined by spindle speeds, also known as rotational delay, measured in rotations per minute. Spindle speeds, in turn, are limited by the physical size of the disk and the power required to move it. You can compare other factors like seek time and transfer time, but the difference in spindle speeds, compounded by the many times you access a hard drive during usage, is the most noticeable difference when dealing with hard drives.

Spindle speeds range usually from 4,200 RPM in notebook hard drives and low-power computers all the way up to 15,000 RPM in high-performance servers. With higher spindle speeds usually come higher costs and lower capacities since the power requirements to spin larger disks are too high to be practical. When selecting the drive you want for your operating system, choose the one with the higher spindle speed. If you’re looking to upgrade with a different drive, make sure you go with a higher spindle speed that your previous one, but keep in mind, if power requirements are an issue (and in notebooks that depend on battery life, they are), you’re increasing your consumption with a faster-spinning drive.

For solid-state hard drives(SSDs), there are no moving parts. That means greater durability, rotational delay, and much faster access times. Unfortunately, the cost per gigabyte of solid-state drives has kept them from completely knocking their disk-based predecessors off the market. You can get a couple terabytes (1,000 gigabytes) of disk-based hard drive capacity for the price of some of today’s solid-state drives. But what they lack in storage capacity, SSDs more than make up for in speed, and fortunately, you don’t need much more than 20 GB to install Windows 7 and even less for Mac OS X or popular Linux distributions. For this reason, solid-state drives normally play excellent hosts to operating systems. If you can’t afford a solid-state drive, a 7,200 RPM disk-based drive should hit your sweet spot between price, capacity, and performance return.

Once you’ve selected the type and speed of drive you’re going to use, you’ll go through the normal steps. If you’re reinstalling, back up your data to a separate drive first! Boot into an appropriate application, usually the disc you’re installing from is bootable. If you’re starting with a fresh drive, the drive is not partitioned and you must create at least one for files to be written to it. If you’re reinstalling, you’re going to wipe away the existing partitions (and the data they contain!) and create new ones.

Partitioning will let you keep your operating system separate from your lesser-used applications and archives, which, when stored on the same partition as your operating system, can decrease performance as the hard drive has all the data in one giant clump. 
Partitioning a drive tells your operating system to treat each division as a separate drive with their own drive letter. If you have to wipe away the data in a partition, you can easily format it without jeopardizing the other partitions. This is handy for quickly reinstalling operating systems while keeping the rest of your data safe and sound in other partitions. Additionally, you can install more than one operating system to a hard drive if it is partitioned properly to create a multi-boot setup. Unfortunately, partitions are not actually separate drives, so if your partitioned hard drive fails, all the partitions and they data they contain could be gone. For this reason, I recommend a second hard drive, whether internal or external, as a back up option for your other files.

In most cases, the software you’re booting up with will include some partition tools, but if not, I recommend Paragon Partition Manager. It’s easy to use, works with all major operating systems and is free to download. It even gives you a few more options when partitioning, like resizing. If you’re just using one hard drive, create a small partition that will be used only for your operating system and a few of your most-used applications. If you’re using a solid-state drive, you can create a partition that uses the full capacity of the drive or reserve a small section for your most-used applications.

Check your operating system for the minimum hard drive requirements and add a few gigabytes on top of that for what I like to call elbow room. You can create another partition that will be especially for storing your pagefile, but I can’t say that I’ve noticed a significant advantage in doing that. Use the remaining hard drive capacity to create as many or as few partitions as you’d like. These will be where you will install your lesser-used applications, store larger files like music, photos, and movies, or even secondary operating systems. When you’re done divvying up your drive, format your partitions and install your operating system. Once the installation is complete, you can begin installing applications and generally filling it up with data again.

I like to keep separate partitions for music and videos. If you keep your partitions organized, your operating system should be able to perform better and you’ll be able to manage your data more efficiently.

I Hope you have enjoyed this Tech Tip on operating systems, hard drives and partitions. If you have a learned anything and would like to share it with everyone or just have a question please leave a comment!

  















  
















Sunday, November 14, 2010

Windows Media Center – Making the PC Cool Again

Windows Media Center is one of those programs that has been around for a while but doesn’t seem to get much notice. Built into most versions of Windows since Vista, but often neglected by a large segment of the computing public. In this Tech Tip, we hope to open your eyes and look at some of the cool things that you can do with Windows Media Center. While this will not be all inclusive (for that, you can always visit the official Media Center website), it is meant to give an overview of some of the cooler aspects. Please note that we’ll be concentrating on the version of Media Center found in Windows Vista and Windows 7.


Out of the Box

If you have a laptop computerwith HDMI the first thing you can do is plug in your PC into your TV since Windows Media Center is optimized for these behemoths. Not sure how to do that? Then take a look at our previous Tech Tip onwatching your tv on a pc. Also, if you don’t already have one, pick yourself up a cheap Media Center remote control. They usually consist of a remote and a USB infrared receiver. The nice thing about them (besides being incredibly cheap) is that they are usually plug-and-play and can be used across platforms (for example, an HP remote control can easily be used on a Dell). If you don’t have a remote and are not into plugging the laptop into the TV – that’s fine, you can just as happily turn your PC into a TV all on its own!
Now launch Windows Media Center – either simply click on start and in the “Search Programs and Files” box type in “Windows Media Center” (be sure to launch Media Center and not Media Player) or if you have a Media Center remote control press the green “Media Center” button on it.
TIP: If you have Windows 7, you may wish to also permanently pin it to the taskbar for quicker desktop launching in the future. The first time you launch it, some of the options mentioned in this Tech Tip may seem to be missing. Once Media Center is fully (automatically) updated however, these should appear.
If you have a laptop, you may want to close the lid and do all your navigating with the remote control. To accomplish this, you need to tell your computer to not “go to sleep” (the default setting) when closing your lid. Click on the battery in the task tray, and then click on “More Power Options.” Once the Power Options box is open, on the left hand side click on “choose what closing the lid does” and in the drop down box choose “Do nothing.” Now close your lid, use the remote to navigate the menus and let the adventure begin!

 
 Internet TV

OK, we all (hopefully) know by now that we can watch various television shows on different websites. Windows Media Center cheerfully aggregates many of them into one convenient place. Slide the menu down to TV , choose “Internet TV” and voila! You literally have dozens of shows at your fingertips. Not sure what to watch – why not go to the Guide submenu (also under TV) to see what is available. You can also search as well – though you’d need to either break out a keyboard for that (why not also pick up aninexpensive wireless keyboard when you pick up the remote?) or use the built-in virtual keyboard by clicking “OK” on the remote control. A back button can always take you to a previous menu if you get lost.
TIP: If you have a TV tuner card in your PC, you can also watch live TV as well.
   


Movies

One of the nicer aspects of Windows Media Center is using it to access your Netflix account and their streaming movie library. Once logged on, you can easily check your Netflix “instant queue” or easily search for titles you may want to see. If you’re more the DVD type of person, you also have a Play DVD submenu option available in the Movie menu. Not to be overlooked is the ability to also watch any videos that may be on your PC (though that is under the Pictures + Videos menu).


Music

Of course Windows Media Center will pick up the music that is on your PC as well. If you have music stored in other places (perhaps on your home network) you can also use the Settings submenu located under the Tasks menu to add additional libraries (tasks>settings>media libraries, choose music and then “add additional libraries”).
Perhaps you may want to listen to some tunes using Internet radio. It may be a little counter-intuitive, but all you need to do is go to Extras menu (not the Music >Radio menu, as all that does is look for an FM tuner until you “add” Internet Radio.) From there, choose the “extras gallery” submenu, and looking at the top, you’ll see some choices - choose “music + radio”. Here you have a link to live365.com and their collection of thousands of stations. Click on the button marked “Add to My Radio” and will place this into your Music>Radio submenu.


Adding it up

Windows Media Center is one of those cool programs built into Windows that people just either under-utilize or never use at all. Here’s a callout to all of you Geeks and Geekettes out there! At your next party, why not use Windows Media Center and your TV to be the multimedia guru of the night. And if you’re already a hip-slicken cool Windows Media Center geek, drop us a comment and let us know of some of your favorite Media Center features; tips and tricks; or other innovative ways that you use Windows Media Center!
Monday, November 8, 2010

Tech Myths Debunked!

By Mark Tiongco - November 7, 2010
In this tech tip, we expose the myth and reality surrounding some of the biggest trends in our technology-oriented world. Hopefully, this will shed some light which can help you better understand how these crazy gadgets work!


1. Why a cable Internet service provider's (ISP) advertised speeds are not actually reality

While it's attractive to see that ISPs advertise 10-15 megabits per second download speed, the reality is that you share the same network node as your neighbor (and neighborhood) when it comes to network logistics. So if you and 15 of your neighbors who have the same cable Internet provider are all online, that 10-15 mbps is split between each of you. What's worse is that if one of your neighbors is downloading 24/7, then you'll see reduced speed all the time. The highest chance of your network's peak performance is late in the evening when everyone else is asleep.


2. True or False - Your CD burner's 52X speed is
truly 52X speed

False-ish - The fine print here is that first, in order to achieve 52X speed, you would need a 52X compact disc. Second, when the cd burner starts, it begins at the inside of the disc and works its way out. That's why some burning programs that show real-time speed will say it's burning at 2.5X speed after 1-2 minutes. The 52X speed is achieved as the burner gets closer and closer to the outer edge of the disc. This is the same for burning DVDs.


3. True or False - Megabits and Megabytes are
the same thing

False - Keep in mind that MEGABITS (Mb) is a unit of measurement for network transfer speed. Megabytes (MB) is a unit of storage such as hard drives. That's why when Internet service providers pitch their fast speeds, they always reference megabits. Therefore, a 1 megabit transfer speed does not mean being able to move 1 megabyte across a network. 1 megabit is about .125 megabytes.


4. Why your 500GB hard drive only shows 465GB of space when you look under MY COMPUTER

Your computer reads information in different ways.

So for example:
BASE 2
1 Megabyte (MB) = 1024 Kilobytes (KB) - BASE 2 (2 ^ 20 = 1,048,576 bytes)
1 Gigabyte (GB) - 1024 Megabytes (MB) - BASe 2 (2 ^ 30 = 1,073,741,824 bytes)
BASE 10
1 Megabyte (MB) = 1024 Kilobytes (KB) - BASE 10 (10 ^ 6 = 1,000,000 bytes)
1 Gigabyte (GB) = 1024 Megabytes (MB) - Base 10 (10 ^ 9 = 1,000,000,000 bytes)
Because we know that 1024 Megabytes (MB) => 1 Gigabyte (GB) => BASE 2 (2 ^ 30 = 1,073,741,824), 500 GB equals 500 x 1,073,741,824 bytes or 536,870,912,000 bytes.
We also know that in BASE 10, 1 GB = 1,000,000,000 bytes
So let's look at what we have:
536,870,912,000 (500GB IN BASE 2)
--------------------- = 1.073741824
(500 x 1,000,000,000) (500GB IN BASE 10)
And if we multiply 1.073741824 x 465, we get 499.28994816, which, if rounded up equals 500 GB
Hard Drive Manufacturers use the binary method when manufacturing their drives but Windows reads the information in the decimal format to show the size. However, which would be more attractive? Buying a hard drive advertised as a 536,870,912,200 byte drive or having it say a simple 500 GB?


5. True or False - The 750 watt power supply you
just purchased for $22 is really putting out 750 watts

False-ish - Similar to how a car with 236 lb-ft of torque provides 100% of it at a certain engine rpm speed, PSU manufacturers know that power supplies hit their max wattage at certain points in time.
For example, 750 watts might be attained with 1 hard drive and 1 optical drive while the computer is idling. Also, it's a dead give-away if you paid only $22 for a high-powered PSU. Look for a PSU that certifies their wattage. So if you see an Antec TRUE 550W power supply, it's Antec's way of saying that the PSU provides 550 watts of power at any given time. Another way to tell that a PSU is reliable is if it’s heavy. Quality-made PSUs are engineered with heavy-duty and longer-lasting capacitors.















6. True or False - Buying a larger-screen size
notebook automatically equals more viewing space

False - Between 15.5" and 16" screen sizes, most entry-level notebooks have a resolution of 1366 x 768 which is fine but doesn't offer more space. Most 17" notebooks have 1440 x 900 resolution.
If you're looking for more viewing space, opt for a higher resolution.
In other words:
15" - 1680 x 1050 or 1920 x 1080
17" - 1600 x 900, 1680 x 1050 or 1920 x 1080
The images, icons and text appear crisper and you can fit browsers side-by-side along with being able to simultaneously view all folders without having to press Alt-Tab to switch windows/folders.


7. Buying a computer with more cores (more
than dual-core) equals much faster performance

False - Mathematically-speaking, more cores would theoretically yield better performance but the issue is that many simple, everyday programs like Microsoft Word, FireFox and Excel won't know to use the extra cores to run the program faster. However, gamers and graphic designers whose programs will see (and utilize) the additional cores will benefit from it. If you want more performance, focus on optimizing the hard drive such as defragmentation, reducing programs that run on start-up (which slow the system down), adding more RAM and cleaning the Windows registry. So ultimately, you really won't see much of a speed difference between a dual-core cpucomputer and a hexacore (6-core) computer both running FireFox and Microsoft Word simultaneously.













In Conclusion

The common denominator for these tech myths is that their “validity” is usually exaggerated marketing hype and manufacturer/retailer buzz words in order to entice customers to buy their products, thus adding confusion to the reality. So the next time you’re in the market for a new cheap laptopdigital camera, phone, discount mp3 player, etc., don’t automatically digest the excessive marketing that salespeople throw to close the sale."
Sunday, October 31, 2010

Saving and Converting Flash-Based Internet Video with RealPlayer SP

By Bryan Lambert - October 31, 2010
It happens to us all – we see a totally cool video on the Internet we’d like to keep a copy for ourselves*. Maybe you’d also like to convert the video to your phone or iPad – or maybe just rip the audio into an MP3 player. Now with one convenient, free program called RealPlayer SP, you can.
In this week’s Tech Tip we’ll be looking at these exciting features built into RealPlayer SP.


What is it?

RealPlayer SP is simply the latest free player available fromRealNetworks Inc., made primarily for playing RealVideo encoded videos. The player also plays a wide range of other video and audio formats as well. If you have used an earlier version (and maybe been turned off by it) you may be surprised at some of the new features in the latest version. With it you have One-Click Video download ability from the Internet. You also have a nifty Mobile-Transfer feature that lets you easily move your media to your phone. Not sure what kind of video your phone can play? With RealPlayer SP the guess work is taken out as it will convert it for you before transferring. Not only do you get these features, but you can now do some simple trim edits as well as post the media to your favorite websites. Best of all, most of these features and built into both the Windows and Mac versions of the software. For a closer look at these features, click on this link.

Instructions for Downloading Videos

1.) Download RealPlayer SP onto your favorite laptop or desktop computer.

2.)
 When Installing be sure that you keep “Enable browser download button” checked.

3.)
 Launch your favorite browser and go to your favorite video site such as YouTube. When you watch the video hover the mouse pointer over it and a “Download This Video” button will appear. Simply click on this button and the video will be downloaded to your computer in no time. If the button fails to appear, be sure that the plug-in is enabled. Also note that this will not work with Silverlight videos (used by Netflix) and certain sites such as Hulu.

4.)
 Your downloaded video will now appear in a RealPlayer Downloader box as well as in the My Library (under My Library> Downloads & Recordings).


Having Some Fun

Now let’s take the sample video that we downloaded and have some fun. First let’s do a simple edit. While in the My Library, highlight the video you want to edit and click on “Trim Video.” The RealPlayer Trimmer will appear. Here you can adjust the starting and stopping point of the media and “clip it off”. Real simple – real easy (note that the trimmer is one of the features only available on the Windows version).

Now let’s transfer the video to our phone. In the My Library, highlight the video and click on down arrow where you see “Copy to Apple iPad” – there you can select your mobile device. The RealPlayer Converter will then pop up and start converting the media to something that your device can handle and then start transferring it (be sure that your device is plugged into yournotebook computer or desktop).

Of course you can simply convert the media to another type easily by clicking on the “Convert to …” button while in the My Library. In this example, we are converting the video into an MP3 track (ripping the audio). When the RealPlayer Converter box comes up, click on the “Convert To” button and choose the format you want the source file converted to (don’t worry, the original file is safe). After that, click on Start and in no time you have your new file in the format of your choosing.

To post the image to the Internet, while in the My Library area, click on the down arrow next to “Post to Twitter” and choose the site you’d like the video posted to. In our example, we are going to post it to Facebook. After logging on through a pop-up window, it will ask you for permission (the first time you use it) to post and then you click on the share button.


In Conclusion

The newest version of RealPlayer is not only fun and powerful, but extremely easy to use. So the next time you see a video you JUST HAVE TO HAVE, with RealPlayer SP, not only can you grab it, but you can edit it, convert it, move it and keep it too!
*Please be sure to respect the copyright laws of your country.

Multi-GPU: SLI & CrossFireX – Who, What, Why?

By Ryan Morse - October 17, 2010
If you’re not a dedicated PC gamer, chances are you haven’t been paying attention to the advancements in video card technology over the years. In a short time,video cards have gone from simple add-on cards with a single graphics processor, a tiny heat sink, and some RAM chips, to full-on computers in and of themselves. You may also not be aware that you can install more than one video card in a desktop PC so their graphics processing units (GPUs) work together to provide what’s known as “performance scaling.” In this week’s TechTip, I’ll discuss some different multi-GPU solutions available, why you might want one, how can go about getting one, and why you might be using one before you know it. 


Desktop Solutions

Traditional multi-GPU solutions, ones that involve two physical add-in cards, are available from the big two video card developers, NVIDIA and AMD, with each using their own method of implementation.Generally, the two cards split the workload and render frames as a team to provide close to double the performance as a single GPU system.  NVIDIA’s solution is called SLI, which stands for Scalable Link Interface, and AMD’s is called CrossFireX. To use either solution, you need at least two PCI Express x16 slots on your motherboardand a supported northbridge chipset. With this being the case, a multi-GPU setup is something you need to plan for before building a desktop system, it’s not something you can easily fall back on for an upgrade if you don’t already have an SLI/CrossFireX-ready motherboard. For an NVIDIA-basedmulti-GPU system, you need two cards with identical GPUs. You can use cards from different manufacturers, but if you have aGeForce 9800GT, you need another GeForce 9800GT to go with it.CrossFireX allows for a little flexibility in its pairings, letting you to pair cards that are within the same subseries (e.g. HD 4870 will pair with HD 4850). Unfortunately, these traditional solutions are can be buggy and are not widely supported. That makes traditional multi-GPU solutions an expensive venture for something you might not even be able to fully utilize. Video cards can be expensive enough, buying two or more can be left to the bleeding edge enthusiasts.


Mobile Solutions

Luckily, multi-GPU solutions have evolved to overcome the hindrances of the traditional setup. Each solution offers a Hybrid variant (Hybrid SLI, Hybrid CrossFire) that is designed to incorporate the use of an integrated graphics processor already on the motherboard to handle light-duty graphics tasks along with the much better performance of a GeForce or Radeon GPU. These hybrid solutions are perfect for notebook systems that usually are already using low cost integrated graphics, providing extra graphics processing power when it’s needed. You can find these multi-GPU solutions in place in a number of notebooks already on the market, but, like traditional SLI, these hybrids are not without their drawbacks.
  
The first drawback is that powering two GPUs at all times when you’re only really using one can drain your battery quickly and the second is that you’ll often need to reboot your system when you enable or disable the extra GPU. This second drawback will probably be overcome by technologies likeNVIDIA’s Optimus and Apple’s “automatic graphics switching”found in their current generation of MacBook Pros. 
These multi-GPU solutions will seamlessly switch between energy-efficient and performance modes without the need to reboot by powering down the unused GPU. This gives you the convenience of a virtually instant performance only when it’s needed, consuming less power, and translating to better battery life for mobile applications. This best-of-both-worlds solution is definitely something I am interested in and I expect to see solutions like this to become widely available in the near future.

  
The rest

If seamless multi-GPU switching doesn’t take over, it will be due to the fact that integrated graphics are gradually being moved from the motherboard’s northbridge chip to the CPU itself. Technically, it can still be a multi-GPU solution, but the hardware is much different and the GPUs aren’t working together. Intel’s Core i3 and i5 CPUs already feature a graphics processor integrated onto the die and AMD is planning on releasing the Fusion series, their incorporation of Radeon technology with AMD CPU microarchitecture. As CPUs have hit a ceiling as far as clock speeds and moved to including more cores, you can expect GPUs to take a similar path. There have already been a few high-end video cards released with two GPUs stuck together, and it’s only a matter of time before they’re small enough to fit many GPU cores alongside the multi-core CPUs of today.